True Grits
As fashionable as it’s become to credit purveyors
on restaurant menus, you might draw the line at plugging
your grits man. But that’s what drew our attention
to Anson Mills, the ne plus ultra of the southern staple.
Unlike the grocery-store variety, Anson Mills grits (and
their Italian cousin, polenta) are coarsely stone-ground,
fresh-milled, and hand-mixed from organic heirloom corn in
South Carolina. The result cooks up fragrant, creamy, and
chewy, and since the “live” corn germ is not
lost in the process, full of lovely fresh corn flavor. Charlie
Trotter, Thomas Keller, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Bill Telepan,
and Tom Colicchio are fans, as is Marco Canora, whose menu
at Hearth gives Anson Mills a shout-out.
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