Charlestonians were so besotted with Carolina Gold Rice they came to savor its single flaw over its many virtues: the grains fractured like mad in the field and the mill as well. The particular protein and starch profile of Carolina Gold yielded rice of such delicacy the best Colonial hand pounders (slaves who hulled and polished rice grains) managed to come up with only about 70% whole grains. These were saved for export. The remaining "brokens," known as "middlins," grew in preference across the local population because middlins, round and rolling on the tongue, accepted flavors with more enthusiasm than whole grains.

Today's advanced milling equipment has yet to surpass the yields African hand pounders achieved, and rice aficionados around Charleston—who remain legion—have remained loyal to broken rice and the dishes associated with it. Only the name has changed: middlins are called rice grits these days.

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Carolina Gold Rice Grits

Time: 20 minutes in an Asian rice steamer

Plump and rounder than the term "grits" suggests rice grits cook beautifully in an Asian rice steamer, finishing like a million little beads with a magnetic attraction to each other. They are made to be sauced. Freshly cooked and plain, rice grits become profoundly comforting with a ladle or two of Sea Island Red Pea Gravy thrown over them. Cooled slightly, sautéed with aromatics, and served with chicken and gravy, they approach a transforming experience.

Equipment Mise en Place
For this recipe you will need a 5 1/2-cup electric Asian rice steamer or a heavy bottomed medium saucepan.

Ingredients
1 cup (7 ounces) Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice Grits
3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon butter or oil (for saucepan cookery)
2 cups spring or filtered water

Cooking Remarks
Rice grits will cook sticky and remain sticky if undisturbed by spoon or spatula. But they release into pearly separate grains when they are tossed in a pan with butter and aromatics.

Directions
1. Place the rice, salt, and water in a 5 1/2-cup electric rice steamer. Stir, cover, and flip the steamer to the "on" position. When the light goes off remove the lid and let the rice cool, undisturbed, for 10 minutes. If you are using a medium saucepan, bring the rice grits, salt, butter and water to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting. Cook for 20 minutes without stirring or lifting the lid. Remove the saucepan from the heat, lift the lid and let the rice cool for 10 minutes.

Makes 4 cups.

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Carolina Gold Rice Grits
with Shallots, Laurel and Celery

Pure simplicity: these aromatics, this rice. The recipe makes about a quart--on the assumption that leftovers will be welcome. Should you be working with plain rice grits from an earlier meal, and have less than 4 cups, break the recipe down accordingly.

Equipment Mise en Place
For this recipe you will need a large skillet (non-stick works nicely) and a wooden spoon.

Working Ahead
You may cook the rice grits well ahead of the finishing work. Even if the grains are attached to each other, they'll bounce apart when sautéed.

Ingredients
1 Recipe Carolina Gold Rice Grits, cooled slightly or cool
3 tablespoons (1 1/2 ounces) unsalted butter
2 small Turkish bay leaves, broken
2 or 3 tablespoons minced shallots
2 ribs (about 3 ounces) celery, inner ribs preferred, medium dice (2/3 cup)
Fine sea salt to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions
1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat until it foams. Add the bay leaves, shallots and celery and sauté, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the shallots are translucent and the celery tender, about 5 minutes. Add the rice grits, breaking them up with the spoon if they clump, and stir until the grains are coated with butter. Season with salt and pepper. Continue to stir the rice until it is hot and the flavors have melded, a few minutes more.

Serves 8.