Soba

Soba, Japanese buckwheat noodles, wearing nothing at all

Time: About an hour top to bottom

In Japan, masters trained from childhood make soba—fresh noodles made from 100 percent buckwheat flour—by hand. Pure buckwheat noodles are difficult to fabricate and famously driven to break. We had to cheat. It was pretty gratifying to create these easy-to-make à la minute noodles from our own flour, Ni-Hachi Sobakoh, a custom blend of fresh, mountain-grown Japanese buckwheat flour and our Farina di Maccheroni 00, a superfine pasta flour made from wheat. Buckwheat flour on its own is difficult to work with because it is weak, lacking the strength given to wheat flour by a protein called gluten. In blending the two flours—and thus skewing our soba slightly toward ramen—we have managed to reduce this noodle’s susceptibility to fracture and keep the buckwheat flavor high at the same time.

The noodles themselves conjure herbs, wet earth, and dark, roasted tea.

Equipment Mise en Place
For this recipe you will need a heatproof glass measuring cup, a food processor, a rolling pin, a bench knife or chef's knife, a pasta machine, a drying rack (real or improvised—a wooden rack for drying clothes works extremely well and a suspended broom handle will do in a pinch), a stockpot, a pair of tongs, and a colander.

Ingredients
1 cup (5 ounces) Anson Mills Ni-Hachi Sobakoh
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus 1 tablespoon table salt for the water used to cook the noodles
Generous 1/3 cup (about 6 1/2 tablespoons, or 3 fluid ounces) spring or filtered water, boiling

Directions

Directions
1. To make the dough: Place the sobakoh in the bowl of a food processor. Bring water in a kettle to a boil. Measure the salt into a heatproof glass measuring cup and pour boiling water to a level slightly above the 1/3-cup line (about 3 fluid ounces). Stir to dissolve the salt. With the food processor running, pour the water through the feed tube. Run the food processor until the dough chases itself around and forms a ball, about 20 seconds. If the dough remains crumbly, add hot water, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, with the machine running. If the dough feels extremely soft and sticky, add sobakoh by the teaspoon, running the machine between additions.

2. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead lightly for a couple of minutes without adding more sobakoh—it should have the consistency of smooth, supple, strong pasta dough. Flatten the dough into a 4- or 5-inch disk and place in a bowl covered very lightly with plastic wrap. (Do not seal the wrap around the bowl—steam must be allowed to escape.) Let the dough cool and rest for 20 minutes.

3. To make the soba: Set up the pasta machine. Cut the dough into quarters with a bench knife or chef’s knife. Keep three pieces in the bowl lightly covered with plastic wrap. Lightly flour the fourth piece and roll it into a band about 3 inches wide and 6 inches long. Run the dough through the second setting on the pasta machine twice and through the fourth setting twice, adding sobakoh as necessary. The band of dough will be about 10 inches long and 4 inches wide. Hang the dough across a wooden drying rack or a suspended broom handle anchored on both ends. Repeat this process with the remaining three pieces of dough. Dry the sheets of dough for about 30 minutes, turning them occasionally; they should be firm and dryish but not leathery.

4. In a stockpot, bring about 4 quarts of water to a boil over high heat and add 1 tablespoon table salt. Set the pasta machine to cut linguine. Flour the bands of dough lightly with sobakoh and feed each through the machine. Loop each batch lightly in half and place the cut soba on a tray or large plate.

5. To cook the soba: Gently lower the noodles into the boiling water, taking care not to break them. After about 10 seconds, stir gently with tongs. Cook about 20 seconds longer. Drain into a colander. Flush with cool, running water by running the water over your outstretched hands held over the pasta to protect it. Drain well. Serve with Shoyu-Mirin Dipping Sauce and Garnishes. link

Serves 4 as an appetizer

Cooking Remarks

Boiling water is used in the recipe for the dough to gel the starch present in the gluten free buckwheat component of our sobakoh (the Japanese term for the flour used to make soba). When this starch is elastic, warm, and hydrated, it interacts with the glutenous properties of the wheat flour in our sobakoh to help create an extensible dough.

The hydration of this dough is sensitive—it can jump from too dry to too wet tout de suite. Any number of factors—your measuring technique, your measuring cups, and the way in which you’ve stored the flour—may necessitate minor adjustments of water or flour once you’ve first mixed the dough. Feel free to make these adjustments, but do so cautiously, as directed in the recipe below.

Soba, which are intended to be eaten fresh, are generally prepared, cooked, and consumed on the same day. Don’t make the noodles too far in advance of serving. To keep the cooked noodles from sticking, you can spray them lightly with vegetable oil and hold them at cool room temperature.