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Late Summer at Anson Mills

August 2013

We, too, despair to see Summer in the rear view mirror, her faded caftan dragging on the road, her grilling tongs aloft. Before we go, before she goes, how about a couple of desserts to conclude the merriment? Yes, we’re late . . . it’s late. We went on vacation and all you got were these lousy recipes.

Except they’re pretty great.

Blueberry and Nectarine Cobbler with Buttermilk Biscuits

Cobbler is the most satisfying arrangement of fruit and pastry to sit on a spoon—and perfect casual vacation fare. Here, the optimal August tryst of blueberries and nectarines meet Fluffy Southern Biscuits. Baked with their shoulders touching so the sides stay soft, fluffy Southern biscuits stand tall, proud, and fair. Too often, regrettably, they are sullied by flavorless overprocessed flour and stung with baking powder. A good biscuit must be more than a way of conveying butter to the tongue or keeping warm fruit company. A good Southern biscuit must be one part softness, one part crispness, and one part big wheat flavor in an uncombative (read soft biscuit) form. Here floats an entire fleet of such biscuits on a sparkling sea of fruit. The perfect summer day.

Toasted Benne Ice Cream with Butterscotch Swirl

Ice cream, Persia’s gift to the world and adopted by every culture, country, and season on earth, is refreshingly without controversy. It survives weird trends like bacon and bubble gum, safe in the assumption that vanilla will always be Mother’s favorite child. Glenn announced early in the year he wanted an African sesame (or benne) ice cream. We knew the flavor of the seeds was curiously irresistible. We knew our benne cookies possessed a broad fan base. We figured the story would have a happy ending—especially after compelling butterscotch into service. Yes. Wow.

Here’s to the pleasures of August, y’all, and Good Food!